A seacock is the valve between the sea and every hose that runs below the waterline: engine intake, heads, sinks, cockpit drains. If a hose splits or a strainer cracks, closing the seacock is what stops the boat filling. A seacock that won't close isn't doing that job, which is why surveyors put it in the safety section.
How a surveyor checks them
Each handle is worked through its full travel. A stiff handle gets noted, a seized one gets an A. The surveyor looks at the body and base from inside for corrosion product, weeping and the hose clamps, and from outside at the through-hull fitting itself. A fitting that has turned pink has lost its zinc, usually because it was brass rather than bronze, and is weaker than it looks.
Then the type. A proper seacock has a flanged base through-bolted to the hull, ideally with a backing block. A ball valve threaded straight onto a through-hull looks similar but leaves the threads taking any knock or load on the hose.
What the standard asks
ABYC H-27 covers seacocks and through-hull fittings. In our words: seacocks must be readily accessible with handles easy to operate, made of corrosion-resistant and galvanically compatible materials, and installed so that the assembly holds a 500 lb static load for 30 seconds. MarineHowTo tested threaded combinations against that figure: a 3/4 inch bronze valve on a matching through-hull failed at 404 lb, and a 1 inch combination at 458 lb.