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FINDINGS LIBRARY · ELECTRICAL

Stray current corrosion: fast-wasting anodes, pink bronze and survey findings

UPDATED 6 NOVEMBER 2026 · 3 EXAMPLE FINDINGS · 2 SOURCES

How stray current corrosion shows up on a boat, why anodes can't stop it, where it comes from on board and at the marina, how it's tested and three example findings graded A, B and C.

AT A GLANCE
Stray current corrosion
USUAL GRADE
A for a through-hull, shaft or propeller badly eaten, or a fitting at risk of failure. B for anodes wasting far faster than normal or damage localised to one fitting. C for a history to watch, with fittings sound
FOUND WITH
Comparing anode wastage with the time since they were fitted, looking for heavy local damage to one fitting, checking the DC system for leaks with all loads off, and a reference electrode test afloat
JUDGED AGAINST
Good Old Boat names the shore power ground wire as one of the primary causes, along with faulty connections or equipment on the boat or nearby boats. Nigel Calder notes zincs can't stop stray current
REPAIR COST
An electrician's time to trace the fault, plus whatever has corroded. A galvanic isolator is the usual fix for shore power ground paths

Galvanic corrosion is slow and predictable: two metals in salt water, the less noble one wastes. Stray current is different. A small electrical leak, from a chafed wire in the bilge or from the marina's shore power, pushes current out through an underwater fitting into the water. It can eat a fitting in weeks.

Where it comes from

David Lynn, writing in Good Old Boat, names the shore power ground wire at a marina as one of the primary causes, along with faulty connections or defective equipment aboard or on nearby boats. He also notes that boats with isolated, unbonded fittings can still suffer from external stray currents. His own sign was zincs, shiny and new, almost entirely eaten away.

Nigel Calder's point in Good Old Boat is the one that matters for the fix: stray current cannot be stopped with zincs.

How a surveyor checks it

Compare the anodes with when they were fitted: fast wastage is the first clue. Look for damage concentrated on one fitting, a shaft, a propeller or a through-hull, rather than spread evenly. Ask whether the boat lives on shore power, whether there's a galvanic isolator, and whether anything changed when the problem started.

With the boat afloat, an electrician can test with a reference electrode and a meter, with and without shore power, and check the DC system for leaks with everything switched off.

What decides the grade

Damage. A fitting, shaft or propeller badly eaten is an A, because it can fail. Fast anode loss or local damage that's not yet serious is a B. A past problem with sound fittings is a C.

Stray current corrosion: example findings

The same defect written up at each grade, the way Axsail writes it from what the surveyor says on board. The grade follows what was found, so use these as wording, then grade what you see.

ELECTRICALA
Propeller shaft and propeller

Shaft deeply pitted forward of the propeller; propeller blade edges eaten back. Shaft anode fitted four months ago almost entirely gone. DC leak found from the bilge pump wiring.

Recommendation: Do not relaunch until the DC fault is repaired, the shaft and propeller assessed and replaced if needed, and new anodes fitted.

ELECTRICALB
Hull anodes, shore power

Owner reports anodes lasting about two months, against six previously. Boat on shore power with no galvanic isolator. Fittings sound.

Recommendation: Fit a galvanic isolator and have an electrician test for stray current with a reference electrode, within 12 months.

ELECTRICALC
Underwater fittings

Anodes wasting normally. Owner reports a past stray current problem traced to a neighbouring boat. Fittings sound.

Recommendation: Monitor anode wastage at each haul-out and record it.

ASafety. Safety or compliance deficiency. Fix before the vessel is next underway.
B12 months. Deficiency that needs timely attention. Fix within about 12 months.
CRoutine. Note or observation, cosmetic or maintenance. Routine maintenance at the owner's convenience.

What the fix involves

Job Reported cost
Trace the fault Electrician's time
Galvanic isolator Part and fitting
Repair a DC leak on board Electrician's time and parts
Replace damaged fittings, shaft or propeller Haul-out, parts and yard labour

Photos to take

The worst-hit fitting close up, the anodes, and the shore power inlet and isolator if fitted. With Axsail, say how long the anodes have been on as you take the photo and it goes on the finding.

Writing it up

Give the anode wastage against time, which fittings are damaged and how badly, shore power and isolator details, and any test results. Recommend an electrician's investigation; the cause, not the anodes, is the fix.

Frequently asked

What are the signs of stray current corrosion?

Anodes that waste far faster than they used to, and heavy damage concentrated on one fitting. David Lynn in Good Old Boat describes shiny new zincs almost entirely eaten away within a short time.

What causes stray current corrosion on a boat?

Good Old Boat names the shore power ground wire at a marina as one of the primary causes, along with faulty connections or defective equipment on the boat or on nearby boats.

Do bigger anodes stop stray current?

No. Nigel Calder notes stray current cannot be stopped with zincs. The fault has to be found and fixed, or the path blocked with a galvanic isolator.

How is stray current tested?

An electrician checks the DC system for leaks with everything switched off, then uses a reference electrode in the water and a meter to read the hull's potential with and without shore power. Readings outside the normal range point to the source.

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Standards it's judged against

ABYC A-28

Galvanic Isolators

What ABYC A-28 covers for galvanic isolators on boats with shore power, what fail-safe means, the ratings, what a surveyor checks and how to cite A-28 in a finding.

What surveyors check

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