Axsail
GLOSSARY · UNDERWATER GEAR

What is an anode on a boat? Zinc, aluminium or magnesium, and when to replace it

UPDATED 10 NOVEMBER 2026 · 1 SOURCE

A sacrificial anode, or zinc, corrodes so a boat's propeller, shaft and fittings don't. Which metal for which water, when to replace one, and what a surveyor reads into the anodes.

DEFINITION
Anode

A block of zinc, aluminium or magnesium fitted to a boat's underwater metal that corrodes in its place, so the propeller, shaft and fittings last.

ALSO CALLED: ZINC, SACRIFICIAL ANODE

Put two different metals in seawater and connect them, and the less noble one corrodes. An anode is a lump of metal chosen to be the least noble thing on the boat, so it goes first. Zinc was the usual metal for so long that many people call every anode "a zinc".

Martyr Anodes matches the metal to the water: zinc or aluminium in salt water, aluminium in brackish water, magnesium in fresh. It advises replacing at 50 percent worn or at least once a year.

What a surveyor checks

Every anode on the haul-out: shaft, hull, rudder, trim tabs, saildrive or sterndrive leg, and the ones inside the engine. How much has wasted, whether each is tight, and whether it's painted over. Then the metal it protects.

The anodes tell a story. Wasted fast means something is eating them, often a missing galvanic isolator on shore power. Untouched after a season can mean it isn't connected, so it protects nothing.

In the report

"Shaft anode about 70 percent wasted. Replace at this haul-out with zinc or aluminium for salt water." See depleted anodes.

Frequently asked

When should anodes be replaced?

Martyr Anodes says at 50 percent worn or at least once a year, depending on the water and how the boat is used.

Which anode metal should I use?

Martyr Anodes lists zinc or aluminium for salt water, aluminium for brackish water and magnesium for fresh water, and warns against mixing anode metals.

Findings to write up

UNDERWATER GEAR

Depleted anodes

When sacrificial anodes need replacing, zinc, aluminium or magnesium for your water, what anodes that aren't wasting mean, what a surveyor checks and three example findings graded A, B and C.

How to find and write it up
ELECTRICAL

Stray current corrosion

How stray current corrosion shows up on a boat, why anodes can't stop it, where it comes from on board and at the marina, how it's tested and three example findings graded A, B and C.

How to find and write it up
ELECTRICAL

No galvanic isolator

How the shore power earth links your boat's underwater metals to every boat on the dock, what a galvanic isolator does, what ABYC A-28 asks for, what one costs and three example findings graded A, B and C.

How to find and write it up

Related terms

Glossary
ELECTRICAL

Galvanic isolator

A device in the shore power earth wire that blocks the small DC currents that corrode a boat's underwater metal, while still passing fault current so the earth stays safe.

UNDERWATER GEAR

Through-hull

A fitting that passes through the hull to let water in or out, such as an engine intake, a sink drain or a transducer, usually closed off by a seacock.

SURVEY TERMS

Haul-out

Lifting a boat out of the water, usually in a travel hoist, so the surveyor can inspect and sound the hull below the waterline.

UNDERWATER GEAR

Cutless bearing

The rubber-lined bearing in the strut or stern tube that supports the propeller shaft just ahead of the propeller, lubricated by the water it runs in.

UNDERWATER GEAR

Dripless shaft seal

A seal where the propeller shaft leaves the hull that stays dry by pressing a carbon or graphite face against a stainless collar, held by rubber bellows.

UNDERWATER GEAR

P-bracket

The bracket that holds the propeller shaft out in the water just ahead of the propeller, carrying the cutless bearing.

Your full survey report, minutes after the walk-round

Dictate as you inspect. Axsail builds the findings and the report for your signature

Start free