An automatic bilge pump is only as good as the switch that starts it. When a boat sinks at its mooring with a pump in perfect order, the float switch is a common suspect: stuck down in sludge, its pivot seized, or its light wiring corroded through.
The switch types
Practical Sailor tested bilge switches in a simulated bilge of seawater, motor oil, sawdust and fibreglass shavings, with water surged across it. It groups them as pivoting arm floats, vertical floats with a magnetic reed switch, and sealed electronic switches. Pivoting floats are the cheapest and most common, and the most prone to cycling the pump as water surges. Electronic switches have no moving parts; the Water Witch 230 performed flawlessly in the worst conditions of the test.
For installation, Practical Sailor's tips: mount a pivoting switch facing aft and within 3 inches of a bulkhead, and fit a second pump and switch higher than the primary.
How a surveyor tests it
Find the pump and switch, then make the switch do its job. Lift the float by hand and check the pump starts and stops. Where possible, pour water into the bilge, because a switch that works by hand can stick under water with debris on its pivot. Check the pump discharges overboard, the wiring and connections in the bilge are sound, and the switch base is secure.
Then the system. Is there a second pump, a high-water alarm, a manual pump the crew can reach. A boat whose only automatic pump won't start is an A, more so if it's left on a mooring.