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FINDINGS LIBRARY · ENGINE AND FUEL

Raw water pump leaking: weep hole drips, impellers and how surveyors write it up

UPDATED 5 NOVEMBER 2026 · 3 EXAMPLE FINDINGS · 1 SOURCES

What water from a raw water pump's weep hole means, how impellers fail, what a surveyor checks on the engine's cooling water pump, what a rebuild involves and three example findings graded A, B and C.

AT A GLANCE
Raw water pump leak
USUAL GRADE
A for no cooling water at the exhaust or an engine overheating. B for a steady drip from the weep hole or rust and salt round the pump. C for an impeller with no service record
FOUND WITH
Looking at the pump body and weep hole, the drip tray and bilge below, cooling water at the exhaust with the engine running, and the service records
JUDGED AGAINST
The engine maker's service schedule. Good Old Boat notes water from the weep hole means an internal seal has failed
REPAIR COST
A rebuild kit (impeller, gasket and two lip seals) and about 45 minutes of work on a typical small diesel pump, per Good Old Boat

The raw water pump pulls seawater in to cool the engine and the exhaust. When it fails, the engine overheats and the exhaust hose can overheat and burn through. When it leaks, salt water sprays over the front of the engine and corrodes everything below it. Either way, a surveyor wants to see it dry and pushing a good stream out of the exhaust.

How a surveyor checks it

Before starting the engine, look at the pump. Good Old Boat's key sign: most raw water pumps have a small weep hole on the body, and water dripping from it means an internal seal has failed. Look for rust and salt crystals on the pump, the engine bearer and the drip tray below. In the author's case, a slow drip had left rust under the pump.

With the engine running, look over the side at the exhaust. Good Old Boat advises doing it routinely: water should come out with the exhaust in a steady pulse. A weak or intermittent flow means the impeller is worn, the strainer is blocked, or the seacock isn't fully open.

Then the records. An impeller with no record of being changed is due, and a spare should be aboard.

What decides the grade

Flow. No cooling water, or an engine running hot, is an A: the engine shouldn't run until it's fixed. A steady drip from the weep hole is a B, because a leak past the water seal will eventually find the oil seal and the bearings. An impeller with no service record is a C.

Raw water pump leak: example findings

The same defect written up at each grade, the way Axsail writes it from what the surveyor says on board. The grade follows what was found, so use these as wording, then grade what you see.

ENGINEA
Raw water pump, main engine

Weak, intermittent cooling water flow at the exhaust outlet and engine temperature rising on test run. Impeller found with three vanes missing.

Recommendation: Do not run the engine until the impeller is replaced and the missing vanes found and removed from the cooling system, normally at the heat exchanger inlet.

ENGINEB
Raw water pump, main engine

Steady drip from the pump's weep hole with the engine running. Rust and salt deposits on the pump body and engine bearer below.

Recommendation: Rebuild the raw water pump with new seals, or replace it, within 12 months, and before the leak reaches the oil seal.

ENGINEC
Raw water pump

Pump dry and cooling water flow good. No record of when the impeller was last changed.

Recommendation: Fit a new impeller and carry a spare aboard.

ASafety. Safety or compliance deficiency. Fix before the vessel is next underway.
B12 months. Deficiency that needs timely attention. Fix within about 12 months.
CRoutine. Note or observation, cosmetic or maintenance. Routine maintenance at the owner's convenience.

What a rebuild involves

Job Reported cost
New impeller and gasket Small parts
Rebuild with impeller, gasket and both lip seals Kit price and about 45 minutes, Good Old Boat
Bearings if they grate or knock Rebuild kit or replacement pump
Replacement pump Pump price, varies by engine

Good Old Boat's warning: photograph the pump before taking it off, because it can be refitted upside down and pump the wrong way.

Photos to take

The pump body and weep hole, any rust or salt below, the drip tray, and the exhaust outlet with the engine running. With Axsail, say what you see at the weep hole and the exhaust as you take the photos and they go on the engine finding.

Writing it up

Say whether the weep hole is dry or dripping, the state of the pump body and what's below it, the cooling water flow at the exhaust, the engine temperature on the run, and when the impeller was last changed. With an A, say "do not run the engine".

Frequently asked

Why is my raw water pump leaking from the weep hole?

Good Old Boat explains that most raw water pumps have a small weep hole on the body, and water dripping from it means an internal seal has failed. In the author's case, the garter spring on the lip seal had rusted out and let the seal move.

How do I know if the impeller is bad?

Watch the exhaust. Good Old Boat advises glancing overboard with the engine running to check water is coming out with the exhaust. With the pump open, discard an impeller that's cracked, smaller in diameter or missing pieces.

Where do missing impeller vanes go?

Downstream, into the cooling system. They usually lodge at the inlet to the heat exchanger and have to be found and removed, or they'll restrict the flow.

How long does a raw water pump rebuild take?

About 45 minutes on the pump Good Old Boat describes, with a new impeller, gasket, mechanical lip seal, water-side lip seal and impeller lubricant. Photograph the pump before removal; it can go back upside down and pump the wrong way.

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